Nyanya! Nyanya! Nyanya!

That was my Day 2 wake-up call on the TAZARA train—a 4-day, 2000km ride from Zambia to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Half-asleep, I thought it was a cheerful chant or perhaps even a song from a fellow passenger. But no, it was the unmistakable hustle of traders at the station. Nyanya means tomato in Swahili, and their cries carried the promise of fresh produce. This vibrant soundtrack was my introduction to the pulse of life along one of Africa’s most iconic railways.

This wasn’t just a train ride; it was a journey through history, culture, and the breathtaking landscapes of northern Zambia and southern Tanzania. The TAZARA railway, a monumental achievement born of necessity and diplomacy, was a lifeline for landlocked Zambia in the 1970s. Funded and constructed with Chinese support, it offered Zambia access to Tanzania’s port of Dar es Salaam at a time when apartheid-era politics complicated trade routes. Stepping onto the train, I felt like I was boarding more than just a vehicle—I was stepping into the pages of Africa’s history.

Life Onboard: A Social Butterfly’s Paradise

If you love meeting people, the TAZARA train is paradise. My first discovery was the canteen/bar, a buzzing social hub that became my favorite hangout. There, travelers from across Africa and beyond mingled, sharing drinks, stories, and laughter. I quickly found myself among a lively group of young Lusakans on an Easter weekend trip to Kasama. Armed with a bottle of gin and a sense of humor, the canteen transformed into a rolling pub with unparalleled views.

The bar stocked Mosi Lager from Zambia and Serengeti Lager from Tanzania—both staples of my journey. There’s something magical about sipping a cold beer while watching the landscape shift from Zambia’s green to Tanzania’s dramatic mountains. Meals were simple but hearty, with a focus on affordability and convenience.

As a digital nomad, I even managed to sneak in some work. My cabin’s small table became an impromptu office, though I frequently paused to chat with curious passengers or soak in the view.

A Lesson in Humility: Bathrooms

Every great adventure has its humbling moments, and for me, it was the bathrooms. First-class cabins, while cosy, lagged behind their second-class counterparts, which boasted modern facilities thanks to newer Chinese-built carriages. By Day 2, I was trekking to the second class for a more comfortable experience. Note to future TAZARA travellers: don’t underestimate second-class—it’s worth considering for its newer amenities.

Tanzania’s Natural Masterpiece

By the time we crossed into Tanzania, the scenery transformed into something out of a dream. Mountains, mist, and waterfalls painted the landscape. It was the rainy season, and the lush greenery of northern Zambia gave way to Tanzania’s rolling hills and dramatic vistas. Every turn of the railway offered a new perspective on nature’s artistry. April may not be the best time for Zanzibar’s beaches, but it’s perfect for witnessing the raw beauty of Tanzania’s highlands.

A Sobering Reminder: Stay Vigilant

Travel isn’t all smooth sailing, and the TAZARA journey wasn’t without its challenges. On one occasion, I left my cabin unlocked while taking photos from the rear carriage. When I returned, everything seemed in place, but a small stash of cash had disappeared. It was a tough lesson in vigilance but a reminder to keep your valuables close. This hiccup didn’t overshadow the journey’s magic—it simply reinforced my resolve to be more cautious.

To Be Continued...

My journey didn’t end in Dar es Salaam. From there, I boarded another train to Mwanza, on the shores of Lake Victoria, before heading to Rwanda. But that’s a story for another time.

For now, I’ll cherish the memories of TAZARA—a train ride that wasn’t just a mode of transport but a microcosm of Africa’s spirit. From vibrant station stops to the camaraderie of the canteen, this journey was a reminder of why I travel: to connect, to learn, and to soak in the extraordinary.

Here’s to more stories, and the beauty of African adventures.